It is early November 2019, a brisk day on the banks of the River Wear, and Gillingham are in town for an FA Cup first-round game. Nearing the end of a dour 1-1 draw, a lame effort from the visitors bounces into the Stadium of Light’s Roker End. Only one side of Sunderland’s 49,000-seater ground is open to home supporters on a day when attendance was just 7,892, and it isn’t that side. Beyond the FA Cup, this was just 15 months into a League One stint which ultimately spanned four years. Seven years on, no seat remains vacant. From atop the same stand, under a darkened sky, amid a swell of anticipation and almost a lifetime of it not happening here, the first two-tier ‘tifo’ (banner) in English football unfurls. “New shores to conquer” bellows in bold typeface, abutting a depiction of ships on a wave of blue flags. Above and behind, a lighthouse, akin to the one found two miles away, not far from the now-demolished Roker Park home that last hosted a game like this, backdrops pr...